The work of a season begins long before any cloth is cut — in the conversations I keep going, year-round, with the master artisans behind every piece. Banaras for the zari weavers, Lucknow for the chikankari karigars, a Kanchipuram weaver whose work I have known for years. We talk constantly: colour, density, what a loom can and cannot be asked to do.
With a master weaver in Banaras — whose loom has produced cloth for four generations of his family — we have been working through exactly what shade of green he can achieve in real silver-gilt zari on a kadhua weave. He has sent three different sample patches. None of them is quite the green I have in my head. We are going to keep at it.
